London

I spent the holidays with my brother in London. This is my umpteenth trip to London, and every time I visit London starts to feel more and more like home. In point of fact I lived in England for a year or so as a little baby. Maybe that is why I feel such a feeling of homeliness for the city.

But there is also the simple fact: London is probably the greatest city on Earth. London has managed to maintain its historical legacy intact, to cherish it and hold it out proudly for all to come and see, but has also fully embraced the present. Thus, it is vitally modern and historically preserved at once. The building of the mayor’s office, with it’s glass and steel curvature, rising from the banks of the Thames next door to the Tower Bridge; the colossal London Eye towering across from Big Ben; these are examples of the way that London has kept the pace of modernity while holding true to its timely legacy. What keeps London vital is that it keeps growing, keeps changing and keeps bettering itself, but does so conscious of how every change will interact and harmonize with what is already there. There have been some unfortunate sacrifices along the way. Soho is basically gone. The “Girls Girls Girls” sign has been removed. Worst of all, the Intrepid Fox - Soho’s best pub with its metal posters and Tankqirlesque waitresses, what should have been an homage to punk eternal, has closed. But despite this, London has become even more navigable, enjoyable, and livable.

One of my favorite things to do in London, if anyone wants pointers, is to walk the south bank of the Thames from the Tower Bridge to the London Eye. It’s a beautiful walk, offering views of nearly all the historical sights along the Thames along the way. After crossing the Tower Bridge and passing the HMS Belfast, the walk takes you over the London Bridge and descends into a back street, where tourists may enjoy the London Dungeon but where I just like strolling past the churches and shops. The walk takes you out to the Thames again, near a pub sponsored by Young’s that I tend to stop at because of the good ales. Next, you find yourself at a modern looking footbridge that stems out from the Tate Modern and finishes at the St Paul’s Cathedral. The Tate Modern has a great collection, including some permanent pieces by Monet, Lichtenstein, Pollock, and the likes, and showcases very nice rotating exhibits of installation works as well – including one that always occupies the space of the museum’s five-floor high gallery space. After a quick jaunt across the bridge to the St. Paul’s Cathedral and back, you wind down the Thames embankment to the London Eye. I’ve never been inside myself. I don’t really like it. But, it’s part of London and here to stay I figure. There, you can cross the bridge to Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. From there, it’s a quick walk to Trafalgar Square (no feeding the pigeons anymore, tho - bird flu) where you can also visit the National Gallery. This probably remains my favorite museum in London, despite how much I like the Tate Modern. There are some works there I consider my best friends in London, and always make a point of dropping in to say hi to them whenever I am in town. After that, for even more excitement, go around the back and walk to Leicester Square, and finally walk a little bit more and you find yourself in China Town – home of some of the best roast duck you can find anywhere. I recommend Wang Kei. It’s cheap and delicious!

London is what all cities should aspire to be. More, it’s what all people should aspire to be. It keeps striving to better itself, it embraces modernity and change, but still clings to and cherishes the icons of its past. Thus, it remains livable, positive, polite, and aesthetic. We could all be as London.