Santorini



Santorini is one of the most beautiful islands in the Cyclades, and perhaps one of the most unusual islands in the world. The island had been dominated by a massive volcano until it erupted. The result of the eruption was that the center of the island sank down into the sea, leaving a massive caldera around the crescent-shaped remnant of the island's outer half and leaving the tip of the magma-covered volcano to remain exposed above water as an island in the center of the island's new bay. The breathtaking white cliffs have become dominated by a surge of real estate development, and now the crust of the island's cliffs are peaked with hundred of beautiful white and blue houses which glitter with lights at night. As much of the caldera faces East, sunsets are a momentous event on the island. Clearly, a place of such sublime beauty deserves to be on the itinerary of any Greek traveler, and certainly was on mine.

Santorini is also, I would say, where things really started to go downhill for me during my Hellenic voyage.

Everything started well enough After being proved my relative geriatricness on Ios I was looking forward to spending some time around an older, more distinguished set of revelers. I reserved a nice hotel near downtown and was all ready to enjoy 4-wheeling by day and partying by night on the island. The ferry ride had been smooth and offered great views of the island's cliffs as we approached, and I had even befriended a couple of nice Australian girls. I was ready for fun. Unfortunately, as soon as I stepped foot on the island, things went immediately wrong.


getting off the ferry

I went first downtown to rent a 4-wheeler. It was then that I learned that my credit card had stopped working. No reason why, just stopped working. Of course, when you're on an island and your credit card is your one source of monetary replenishment, this is bad news. I had maybe 200 euros in my pocket and had no idea how long that could last me in expensive, touristy Greece. I could only spend one night in my hotel and could not afford a 4-wheeler. Even that was a disappointment as the power went out that evening and I could not even take a shower before heading out that night in Fira, the center of urbanity on Santorini. I watched the sunset from the town's walls and, later, allowed myself one drink at a lively pub. I met the Australian girls, but after it was clear I had no money with which to buy them drinks they soon parted from my company. Dejected, I went back to my dark hotel room and planned for the next few days.


Fira, before sunset


Fira, after sunset



Fira's architecture


A drink with the Aussie girls

My next course of action was to find the cheapest place to stay on the island. This I found in the small settlement of Perissa, on the island's more hum-drum West side. I found a camping ground and rented a holey tent for only 8 euros a night. I feasted on cheap spanikopita and gyros during the day and spent some time on Perissa's sandy, but painfully windy, beach. I tried to climb the mountain to the ruins of Ancient Thira nearby, only to find they were closing (at 3:30 no less!) It was not a winning day. That evening I went to Oia, where the best sunsets are supposed to be found. After a nice meal of moussaka and house wine I tried to get a good view of the sunset, but everyone was absolutely packed with tourists. I would up following some Australians around a treacherous bit of cliff, through a deserted and crumbling building site, and onto a promontory that offered excellent views. We had wine and had some fun with photos. I tried to go back with them but, unfortunately, their tour guide would not let me on the bus. I never saw them again, and went back to my dark and dirty tent to drink cheap ouzo and forget the day had happened.


A church in Perissa


A view of Perissa


Moussaka and wine!





The architecture of Oia


One of the crazy Aussies in Oia


Enjoying wine and an Oia sunset

After this, I decided to throw caution to the wind. I decided that I should try and enjoy myself at least a little while I was on this island. So, I rented a 4-wheeler. This was fun! I was able to tool about the little island wherever my will would take me. I sped back up to Ancient Thira before closing first, and enjoyed the awesome views from there. Afterwards, I checked out the black sand beaches of Kamari and then the red sands of the island's southern beaches. In the evening I bought some moussaka, house wine, and baklava from a small restaurant (sadly, not as delicious and even more expensive than the night before, but oh well) and sought out my own, perfect sunset spot. This I found, in an undeveloped wasteland just south of Fira. There was no one around, only stray dogs, and yet I found a spot on the cliff's edge that offered me views of the entire caldera, the volcano in the middle, and the sunset. Despite being perhaps the best place on the island, I was all alone there. I enjoyed my dinner and the sunset in solitude, at once depressed and energized by my intrepid discovery.


My 4-wheeler. Vroom!


In Ancient Thira


A view of Kamari beach


An even better view!


Red beach






Views from my lonely lookout at a Santorini sunset

The next day, I left Santorini. On Santorini I faced hardships, loneliness, and dashed expectations yet again. But, at the same time, I learned to reappreciate how I as a tarveller can rise above these obstacles and still make my travels into adventures.