Eco Sport Party in Transnistria




While living here in Moldova, I have been lucky enough to be a member of the Eco Sport fitness center. More than just a place to work out, Eco Sport has been an oasis of friendliness in what can sometimes be an uninviting culture. Indeed, I count among the Eco Sport staff some of the best friends I have made here in Chisinau.

So, I was happy that Eco Sport hosted a party at a hotel on the banks of the Nistru River. A great summer escape, but also one last party here in Moldova before I leave. Tomorrow, I head out to Montenegro, leaving Moldova behind.

Another plus about the party was that many people were heading to the hotel where it was situated by bicycle. I welcomed the chance to put into practice all my training in the spin classes and to take in the Moldovan countryside from the perspective of a bike. So, early in the morning, a clot of bicyclists and a few support vehicles headed out from Chisinau into the Moldovan fields.

Due to the few number of bicycles the gym had, I only got to ride for the second half (and, fortunately, the less hilly half) of the journey. However, when I did get my chance, I was not disappointed. Biking in Moldova may be one of the best ways to see the country. The countryside rolls and dips with lush green fields, sprinkled occasionally with quaint villages sliced from another time. Cleaving my bike through the noiseless air, passing horse carts and elder people in classic garb, I truly felt like I was in the heart of Eastern Europe.

Once thing I was not prepared for, however, was crossing over the Transnistrian "border" by bike. Transnistria is a breakaway republic from Moldova, a thin slice of land lying across the Nistru river that maintains its own independence through corruption, Russian interference, and Moldova's own ineptitude to do anything concrete about the situation. It is a lawless land unrecognized by any nation, and as such is rife with mafia corruption. As such, he "border officials" there typically try to extort money from anyone who passes (I've heard of Moldovan university students being charged 50 euro for forgetting their student ID cards!) and foreigners are usually their easiest targets. However, when I passed through on the bicycle, the thick-necked thug who blocked me was visually disappointed. Clearly, in my exercise attire, I had not stash of cash ready to hand over to him. Also, as the group I was with had obviously already struck a deal with the Transnistrian "officials" to pass through, I could not very well be sent back. A flash of my passport, pus the usual 10 lei charge o cross the "border", and I was free to pass - despite the scowl of chagrin that passed the faux-guardians face.





After a peaceful and pleasant ride along the banks of the Nistru River, we finally reached our destination: a small hotel situated by the river. For Moldova, the place was an oasis: swimming pool, tennis courts, and access to the river. Water sports and other athletic competitions were arranged, the quality of which became less cohesive as the day - and the drinking - grew longer. In the evening people gorged themselves on BBQ and various drinks, and a nighttime disco party at the hotel collapsed into riotous insanity in the swimming pool.

All told, it was a great way to say goodbye to Moldova and some of the best friends I have made over the past two years here. I got to enjoy the Moldovan countryside, great Moldovan food, awkward Moldovan politics, and great Moldovan friendship all in one excurtsion. There are, indeed, some great aspects to this country, things I will miss when I am gone.